Known as the 'jewels of the Andaman Sea', the six islands in the Ko Phi Phi group are Phi Phi Don, Phi Phi Leh, Bamboo Island , Yung Island , Bida Nok and Bida Nai. The first is the only one inhabited; the rest can be visited on organised day trips from the mainland, or from Phi Phi Don itself.Despite the island’s unceasing popularity – thanks in part to its starring role in the blockbuster movie The Beach - a visit should be a top priority on any Krabi holiday.
In a province filled with amazing and dramatic scenery, Phi Phi is even more amazing and more dramatic! Picture towering green cliffs, rising up from a glittering turquoise sea, and endless white sandy bays dotted along the shore, and you begin to have some idea of what awaits you here. But even after seeing the photos, the reality never fails to blow people away.
Phi Phi Leh Island , the most beautiful of the six, is shaped like a piece from a jigsaw puzzle, with sheer walls concealing hidden lagoons, and the stunning Maya Bay - which has the Hollywood seal of approval, thanks to the film. Bamboo and Yung Islands also boast some fantastic beaches; while Bida Nok and Nai are little more than large rocks, used mainly by divers, who say the underwater scenery here is among the most beautiful in Krabi.
All around the Phi Phi Islands , marine life is abundant and snorkelling stops will be a feature of any tour. Visibility here is excellent - up to 20 metres - and the variety of coral and fish you will see is amazing. If you wish to stay in Phi Phi to take full advantage of what the islands have to offer, this is possible in one of the many hotels and resorts on the largest island of Phi Phi Don.
But it is highly sought after with limited accomodation, especially since the tsunami destroyed many hotels, and you’re advised to book well in advance. Many prefer the advice of coming for a day trip.
The Great Tsunami
Phi Phi Don probably suffered the most complete devastation of all the resort areas that fell victim to the tsunami of 2004. The thin, low-lying isthmus where most the development was, received waves from both directions, amplified by the two bays that sandwich it.
The result was total ruin, nothing was left standing and the loss of life here particularly high. The tragedy aside, many considered it a blessing, because 20 years of rampant, unregulated development and sheer greed had spoilt this once pristine national park. Overcrowding and poor planning had turned some parts of the island into a shanty.
Procrastination on agreeing to more sustainable development plans has limited rebuilding on the island, and although there is some accomodation and return to normality, much of the ithsmus remains undeveloped and more natural. For the day-trippers it’s a far more pleasant experience.
While the days here may be sleepy and laidback, at night the island wakes up and goes crazy. Large beachside bars and clubs hold regular parties with DJs, fireshows and vast quantities of alcohol for their mainly young clientele. There are also a few civilised corners of Ton Sai village, for those who prefer a quiet drink, as well as some top class European and Thai restaurants, and the ubiquitous internet café and souvenir shop.
Daytime activities, for those who are not hung over, include trips to the islands, sea-kayaking, rock climbing and, of course, diving. The majority of the dive sites in Krabi are located in or near the Phi Phi Islands and there are many dive schools that can organise trips and courses here.
There are also several watersports available on the beach in Lohdalum Bay , including parasailing, banana-boat rides and pedalos. The short hike up to the viewpoint behind Ton Sai village, which affords a breathtaking view over the twin bays of Ton Sai and Lohdalum, is also recommended but go early in the morning or at sunset to avoid the heat.
Phi Phi tourist guide
Once a backpacker’s best kept secret, Phi Phi island (a title which invariably refers to the habited Phi Phi Don as opposed to the uninhabited Phi Phi Leh) is one of the most beautiful of the Andaman Sea islands belonging to Thailand.In fact there are several islands in the archipelago but only one has any development. Most visitors come for a day trip, visiting several, while others opt to stay awhile on Phi Phi Don. Words do little justice to the awesome coastal scenery surrounding the islands and while photographs can capture the essence, those who experience it for themselves will tell you that the real things is worth a thousand words or pictures.
The classic butterfly shape of Phi Phi Don, with its two distinctive back-to-back bays is one of the world’s most spectacular seascapes. The 2004 Tsunami took its toll on the island and the burgeoning tourist development was completedly devastated. The recovery has been slow due to the authorities’ reluctance to allow unchecked development too close to the beach, and this has actually had a positive effect on the island.
Where as many considered the island to be overrun and spoilt before the tragedy, it now seems to have returned the island more to its natural state. Although there are fewer beds available on the island, those who come as day trippers experience a much more beautiful Phi Phi Don.
Phi Phi Don is a purpose-built holiday centre; prior to the development of its tourist infrastructure there was little happening on the island and without tourism there would indeed be no industry at all.
Visitors come here for the very fact that there are no busy roads, no giant supermarkets, no malls or large-scale entertainment centres. If a quiet, lazy beach holiday in tranquil, scenic settings gets your thumbs up, then Phi Phi is definitely the place for you. It offers a mix of expensive primely placed hotels and cheaper guesthouses, with a small village of tourist services.
However, it is popular and at the height of the season it heaves under the weight of daytrippers. Fortunately there are two sweeping beaches/bays, Ton Sai and Lo Dalam which are 100m apart and offer plenty of room for everyone. The rest of the island is mostly steep karst hills It’s not all about soaking up the sun or paddling in the sea however, visitors wanting to see something of the surrounding area can take day trips to neighbouring island and mainland destinations such as Phi Phi Ley, Krabi, and Phuket. Alternatively, local companies offer some fantastic diving opportunities in the crystal clear Andaman waters with both beginners and accomplished divers catered for.
Phi Phi Ley is a particular treat with its paradise like beach protected by national park status, and was featured in the Hollywood Blockbuster The Beach. Phi Phi Don is reached primarily by regular ferries or private boat trips from Phuket, Krabi and Koh Lanta, however air shuttles are also now available from Phuket and provide a speedy and convenient, although more expensive alternative, to the boat.
How to Get There
Phi Phi Don is accessible by daily passenger ferries from Krabi Town , Ao Nang, Ko Lanta and Phuket. The islands lie around 45km from the mainland to the west (Phuket) and east (Krabi) and journey time is around 1.5 hours. The ferry stops at the main pier in the village of Ton Sai , where the majority of the resorts, shops and restaurants are concentrated. From here, it is possible to take a longtail boat to the more remote beaches to the north and west of the island, where there are also a few resorts.
